puppy care
My Doodle Shopping list
A doodle
A Wire Dog Crate (any durable brand). I use 34"L x 22"W x 25"H, but anything in that neighborhood should be fine. (Ie. 30x30, 30x24 is fine for our smaller pups.)
Nail clippers (Start with human toenail clippers then proceed to puppy clippers, then to adult dog clippers.)
Wire "slicker" brush
Good quality puppy food or a plan for cooked or raw food. Our pups eat a diet of 2/3 protein (raw venison, chicken, turkey, bison, or cooked eggs and pork plus occasional organ meats) mixed with 1/3 veggies supplemented by Nature’s Farmacy calcium, complete vitamin and Probiotic. If I don’t have the time to prepare this diet, they eat Answers’ raw Detailed Formula plus a little bit of Kare or Answer’s raw fermented goats milk everyday. If feeding kibble, First Mate, Fromm Puppy Gold, Nutrasource and Framina are all fine. Honest Kitchen, Carna4, Origen and Lotus have excellent kibbles, although at a higher price point.
Excellent Probiotic everyday. (We use Nature’s Farmacy Probiotic Max every day always. It is excellent and a great value as dogs only need 1/4 teaspoon everyday.). If you travel much with your pup, I suggest bringing a tube of Nature’s Farmacy probiotic paste with you.
A 3/4" Adjustable Medium Dog Collar (the Lupine design shown here offers an excellent size range good for pups and some grown dogs)
A 6' Leash (we like Lupin's -Both Collar and Leash have excellent warranty)
A 20' training lead (no specific brand)
Nature’s Farmacy Easy Ear cleaner (See Naturesfarmacy.com) or ZYMOX Ear Cleanser (to prevent puppy ear infections) optional
ZYMOX OTIC HC 1.0% -some people like to have this on hand in the case of ear infections.
With a proper diet and keeping the ears dry, ear infections can usually be avoided!
If you will groom your dog at home - One set of Professional dog clippers such as the Andis ARC ones shown here. (You need a high quality set for a good result. Avoid cheap alternatives which provide three times the stress and one-third the result!) Even if you don’t plan on grooming at home, professional dog clippers are wonderful for keeping the “private” areas clean and also for trimming under the muzzle in between cuts (for those of us who don’t want water dripping everywhere!)
1/2" Blade (this is a universal blade that fits the Andis Clippers). This blade does a great job on the body of the dog and the #10 blade which often comes with the clippers can be used for special areas (in and under ears, under mouth, feet and around base of tail).
I recommend an “easy walk” harness. Pups should be taught early not to walk ahead of you…but just in case, this is great for keeping your pup walking nearby!
Washable dog bed (not made in Asia)
Plenty of chew toys (not made in Asia)
100% Grass fed bully sticks (I like the larger ones which take quite a while for pups to chew up)
Clean drinking water. Much city tap water has toxins in it and chlorine which will kill off beneficial gut bacteria. If using a reverse osmosis filter, be sure to have water remineralized.
More Puppy Care
These are just my opinions on how to raise a puppy. Feel free to peruse this list for puppy care ideas.
The first few days…
After coming home, the change to your home is tremendous for your dog. Your pup is leaving its litter and all that is familiar. Up to now your pup has spent his days playing with litter mates and sleeping in a giant dog pile. Now this has all changed! Adjusting to new surrounding is very tiring. Therefore, it is important to give your pup a few days to adjust to his new surroundings before starting the field trips. Encourage children to give your pup space too! (We remind children that pups need their sleep!) This is also a good time for your pup to realize that while he is a very welcomed addition, he is NOT the center of the house. He will be calmer this way and secure knowing that you are the Alpha of this new environment that he is quickly sorting out. To this end, at first, I suggest not allowing puppies on furniture. (Sofa, beds, etc.) Remember he is not your baby but is a dog with sharp teeth and a potential annoying bark who needs to listen to all people at a home including children! He will be much more relaxed as he learns to trust all of you as the kind but firm leaders of your home. (If you really want a dog which joins you on your furniture, I suggest waiting several months till the point where your dog knows that you are in charge. You can “invite” your dog on the furniture and then ask him to get off when you want.)
sleeping
Little pups need lots of sleep…they can get cranky without their sleep just like babies! Make sure to take them outside to go potty immediately when they wake up! Your pup should learn to sleep through the night but in the beginning will probably need to be let out at least once. In the middle of the night, interact with your pup as little as possible. With a leash on him, carry him to the spot where you would like him to relieve himself. Use whatever word you are using for your pup relieving himself. A simple word or pat of praise when they go potty and then back into the crate. Keep all simple. :)
Crates
I suggest having two crates – a small one next to your bed and larger one downstairs where you tend to be during the day. We use a small airline plastic crate next to our bed and our wire one by the main living area. Pups separated from their litter have a very hard time getting through the night separated from everyone. If you would like them to sleep in a crate away from your room, consider using earplugs and/or white noise such as a fan with a blanket or towel over it. Pups can be very very noisy!
We aim for our pups to love their crates. We give them the command “crate” and teach them to go in and out of their crates, putting treats in their crate to make it a special place. If not crate potty training, we leave the door open during the day so they can go in and out. Never let out your dog when he is in the midst of barking or whining as this reinforces this negative behavior. If coming home after being out and needing to let your dog out of the crate, if he is constantly whining, at least have your dog follow a command in his crate such as sit or down to get him away from the whining mentality…and then the moment he is in the “calm”, let him out.
At night we do not have any water or food in the crate.
Learning to Trust - absolutely crucial!
The first sixteen weeks of a puppy’s life is crucial! EVERY experience during this time needs to be positive. Pups need to trust people, trust dogs and trust the world they live in. They should finish these four “magic months” knowing that people are safe, dogs are safe and the world is safe. This will make an enormous difference in their lives and produce a pleasant confident dog! Watch over your pup’s life carefully. Choose safe people to play with your pup and choose safe dogs for your pup to interact with. If your dog happens to have even one negative experience with during this crucial time with a person, dog or environment, it can take dozens and dozens of positive experiences to counteract it. Have children hold puppies on the floor - puppies can squirm and fall out of arms easily resulting in a broken leg or at least fear. Introduce new sounds slowly - let your dog approach various household items such as vacuums when he is ready. Introduce your dog slowly to other dogs - making sure the other dogs are friendly.
Never coddle a fearful pup as you would a child. If your pup is afraid of something and you coddle him, this will actually confirm and intensify their fear. They need to see from your actions that there is nothing to fear. I had a pup which I took to Home Depot before Halloween and he was frightened by the life-sized witch making strange sounds. So I spoke to my pup in my most happy voice about how silly this was and continually gave my pup treats as he walked on. his own closer and closer to the witch. Finally sitting in front of the witch he enjoyed numerous treats. The next time we were at Home Depot he ran right away to the witch hoping to get treats! If a dog seems scary to your pup, also do not coddle or pick up. (But make sure that your pup is ONLY playing with safe dogs.). I would always remove my dog immediately if playing with a bullying dog….but again in a happy voice. “Ok…time to go” in my happiest voice!
Pups need to trust you! Never discipline your pup after chewing up something, going potty in the house, etc. The punishment will make no sense to him and it will reinforce a message that people and the world are unpredictable. You should be their hero! Keep all happy, happy, happy!
REWARDING THE CALM….always!
We aim to raise calm, confident dogs. It takes diligence to get there, but it’s so worth it when you do! Wait until your dog is in a calm state to give him affection. If your pup jumps on you, turn around or ignore. Choose from day one to not reinforce this or any crazy dominant behavior! All four feet should be on the ground for any attention. If she is very excited jumping madly when getting her food, or about to go on a walk, put the food or leash away until the calm returns. Do not play aggressive games with your dog. Ask friends when visiting to ignore your sweet pal until your pup is back to calm. Examine your behavior to see if you are doing anything that reinforces hyper or unwanted behavior. All of these measures might seem difficult to do, but when you have a lovely calm dog which doesn’t lung or bark at people or other dogs, you’ll see that it’s worth it! Examine your behavior often. Pretend your dog is a huge Saint Bernard. Are there habits you allow with your pup which you would not allow a 120 pound dog to do such as jumping up onto your lap, on furniture, or whining to get what they want, begging? If you don’t allow your sweet little pup to do anything that you would not allow a huge dog to do, you will likely avoid doggie dominance.
Preventing separation anxiety
To best prevent your dog from separation anxiety, ignore your dog when coming and going. How do you treat your sofa when you leave the house or come home? Treat your dog the same way. No talking, no petting, no looking. Ignore your pup for at least a few minutes before leaving or after coming home. While this can be challenging for people, it is the most caring thing you can do for your dogs as it allow them to return to a calm state, and eventually they will be able to maintain that calm state the entire time you are away. (If you want your dog to excitedly meet you when you come home, this is meeting your own needs at the expense of your dog. If a big deal is made of goodbyes and hellos upon your return, your dog can easily be brought into an anxious state the whole time you are away, just waiting for the release of all that energy when you get home. This can lead to horrible separation anxiety, destruction of items in your home, etc. )
When pups are young, I also recommend having times when they are separated from you. Perhaps leave your pup at a dog friendly trusted friend’s home for a couple hours without you. If you have two dogs, be sure to have weekly activities where dogs are separated during these crucial development months.
Housetraining
Our pups start to to relieve themselves on grates and trays by 3 weeks. At 6 weeks, they are usually quite consistent with it. By the time they are ready to head to their forever home, it is usually an easy transition because they have the option to use the grates/potty trays. However, I recommend keeping your pup in a very limited area with the grate in easy reach to ensure success. VERY SLOWLY give your dog greater access to the house. For our layout, we start with the puppy in the kitchen. Then we add the living room, and later the dining room. After many months we add the upstairs, and then eventually the full house. If our dog has any accidents, then we narrow in the areas where the dog can be. Never punish a dog for an accident but simply carry them outside to where they should relieve themselves.
Note that pups generally will pee and poop right after drinking and eating. Besides this they generally need to be let out every hour or two until they get a bit bigger.
There are many videos online regarding crate training if you go that route. My recommendation is to make it all fun. Give your dog their food in their crate. Throw treats in the crate and say “crate” in a happy tone. Make the crate a happy, safe, and positive place. When we crate train, we have a simple schedule….potty - play in limited area for an hour - crate for an hour - potty - repeat. I actually set my timer for the free play time according to how well the pup I am training is doing.
Potty concerns
Set a place in your back yard for your pup to potty. It is best if it is differentiated in some way. For instance, if you have a lawn, perhaps there is a section of rocks, or maybe there is a spot which is fenced off. Choose a clear potty command which the entire family can use, such as “Spot!” or “Go Potty!”
There are several odor eliminators terrific for accidents. Unique Pet Odor & Stain Eliminator and Odoban are just two of them. Hopefully you are not having many more, but if an accident occurs on a carpet, blot out as much as possible, then pour the eliminator on top of that area (diluted according to the directions), blot that out, and repeat if desired.
Grooming
To start out, once every day touch your pup all over his body. We have a little routine…place hands over the eyes, then touch nose and mouth. Then we pet a bit roughly down the back and tug the tail just a tad and then rub the back backwards. Finally we touch each claw on each paw. (Your pup will be very accustomed this if coming from our home.) Desensitizing your pup will pay off later, when you need to trim nails, and brush and scale your dog’s teeth (or if someone just bumps into your pup!) If your dog develops plaque, you can scrape it off yourself with a tooth scaler and save hundreds of dollars. (It is also much less stressful for most dogs to have their teeth scraped at home rather than to go to the vet, be drugged, etc.)
Its important to keep the area around the pup’s rear shaved so that your puppy stays clean from pee and poop. It is easy to trim with a quality shaver (see “Supplies” section), and you will not hurt your pup with the blade of a good quality shaver. Your dog should start going in for regular grooming around 4-5 months or get groomed at home by this point. Some people like to groom their dogs every six weeks. Some go longer – even up to 4 months between grooming. If you like to go longer, be sure to keep all mats out of their hair. I have been told that it is very uncomfortable for a dog to have mats—it is like having their hair pulled! If your dog gets very matted, often the only way to remove the mats is to cut or shave them out. If this is done in the winter, your dog can catch cold easily. Thus, stay on top of grooming! Note: puppy fur generally doesn’t mat as easily, and then all of a sudden the matting problem can occur! (Also, grooming at home can be extremely time consuming and difficult on the back unless you have the proper grooming table.)
We have found that we can go longer between groomings with good brushings at home and by some done at home trimmings around the eyes, under the ears, mouth, and around the privates. Have these demonstrated to you before doing yourself.
Remember when hiring a groomer that you are bringing YOUR dog. You can decide how you want your dog to be groomed! You do not need to take the latest doodle fashion! I have a groomer who is very wiling to work with me and so here is what I ask for and why:
Simple ¾ inch clip over entire body. (Nice in-between length)
Short around eyes (very important that your dog can see…keep fur around eyes trimmed.)
Short 1/4” blade under the muzzle (I dislike beards since water then drips everywhere and food gets messy too)
Short #10 blade everywhere around privates for hygiene purposes
Short on feet (to prevent bringing in dirt and snow clumps)
Ears clipped short to the leather (helps prevent ear infections)
Ears shaved inside (helps prevent ear infections)
We shave our pups around the privates twice before our pups leave, but I suggest that pups have a few cuts and get comfortable with being groomed before having the trimmer used on their ears or muzzle. As with all things, we want trimming to be a positive experience! When your pup gets groomed for the first time, we recommend just asking for a limited puppy cut – no trimmer anywhere near face and no plucking of hair out of ears.
We recommend having our dog groomed regularly as a pup so that your pup is very comfortable with the grooming process. Getting your pups comfortable with having their nails and fur trimmed will avoid anxiety over grooming in the future!
Nails
Maintain regular nail clipping. Regular clippings will keep the quick from growing too long, so clip the nails every couple weeks. If you have a dremel, you can get your dog into the routine of having them done weekly. We clip the pups nails weekly from age 3 weeks on. It’s much worse not to cut your dogs nails than to occasionally clip the wick of the nail and have the nail bleed. (If you accidentally cut the quick when trimming your dog’s nails and your dog yelps or it bleeds, stay calm. Do not make a big deal of it to your dog. To stop bleeding, many use styptic powder on a moistened cloth or cotton applicator applying pressure for 30 seconds. Some people who don’t have access to styptic powder use a cornstarch or baking powder paste instead. Styptic powder works quicker, but can stain.
Baths
Don’t bath too often, as it can dry out the puppy skin and water in the ears can cause ear infections. Probably no more than once every other week. There are many excellent dog shampoos out there. Take care that no water gets in the ear. If necessary, use cotton balls to protect the ears from water.
A word on Food
Always have water available. Feed your pup 2-3 times a day. (Around 14 weeks, feeding can be twice a day.)
We feed our pups Answers Detailed Raw formula. It’s easy to use and it gives the pups a head start nutritionally in life.
If you are interested in making a raw diet youself, I suggest the following books…
Raw Dog Food: Make it Easy for You and Your Dog by Carina Beth Macdonald
Work Wonders: Feed Your Dog Raw Meaty Bones by Tom Lonsdale
Note that some vets are advocates of raw diets and others hate raw diets, as it’s important to balance the nutrition. If you speak to a wholistic vet, you may leave thinking that you will kill your dog if you feed kibble. If you speak to a traditional vet, you may leave thinking that you will kill your dog if you feed raw!
Kibbles: First Mate, Suggested Fromm Puppy Gold
Treats
For pups on kibble, the best treat is usually their kibble. Pups need a lot of training and their own food is a very easy way to go! Then more special treats can be saved for special events or later on when they are less food motivated. If pups are on a raw diet, I suggest Ziwi Peaks. It’s actually a dog food, but it makes spectacular treats!
Teach your pup a word for special treats and always use the same word. In this case treats are indeed very special - freeze dried liver, a tiny piece of nitrate-free hotdog, etc.! In our home the word is “cookie” but any word will be fine as long as it is consistent. If I say this to my dog, she will immediately go to the frig where we keep her special treats. This has been invaluable in getting her attention in some situations. (Note that when using the special treat word, do not reward the pups with their kibble…always make it special!)
For pups coming from our litters, they have been conditioned from early feedings to respond to “Puppy!” They will come running when hearing this. This is an easy word to keep on using for special treats after pups go home. I suggest using it at least every other day with a terrific treat to keep it reinforced. Then if your pup gets out by accident and is heading toward danger, this can be a lifesaving word for them to come back. (Make sure you never have negative connotations with the word so never put your pup in the crate after calling them this way, etc.)
Warning!
Do not give your dog any treats that come from China or contain ingredients from China. These can result in liver failure and other problems. Try to avoid giving your pup any food or treats with wheat in them. (Do not give pieces of bread, etc.) For many poodles and doodles, eating wheat will result in ear infections! Avoid rawhide bones which can peel apart and cause choking. We find that organic bully sticks work very well for teething.
Ask your vet for further recommendations for your dog.
Puppy Safety and Health
Be aware of environment factors. Know what is on your lawn! Make sure you only have organic products used on your grass. Be aware of any poisonings, coyotes, and hawks in your area. (Coyotes can jump a 6-foot fence and hawks can easily swoop down and carry away a pup. Someone needs to be always diligently watching pups outside in any area which opens up to Colorado’s open space!)
Do not allow pups to chew on rocks! They can break their teeth. Check which plants and flowers they are exposed to as some are very poisonous such as day lilies.
Take care with human foods. Chocolate can be especially poisonous to dogs and the problem is that dogs like it so much . Besides this there are many other foods which are toxic to dogs.
Alcoholic beverages, Apple seeds, Apricot pits, Avocados, Cherry pits, Candy (especially chocolate and candy containing the toxic sweetener Xylitol), Coffee (grounds, beans, and chocolate-covered espresso beans), Garlic, Grapes, Gum (can cause blockages and sugar free gums may contain the toxic sweetener Xylitol), Hops (used in home beer brewing), Macadamia nuts, Moldy foods, Mushrooms, Mustard seeds, Onions and onion powder, Peach pits, Potato leaves and stems (green parts), Raisins, Rhubarb leaves, Salt, Tea (because it contains caffeine), Tomato leaves and stems (green parts), Walnuts , Xylitol (artificial sweetener), Yeast dough.
Limit very young puppies from walking long distances. Start off with 5-10 minutes and go from there. Do not take young pups on runs. It is better to do short routes several times a day, until you know how far your pup can go. Check your puppy’s pads to make sure that they are not wearing out on the asphalt. If the pads are showing areas (little holes) of irritation, try to find dirt paths or grassy areas for them to walk on. Never drag a puppy on a walk or run. Gauge their energy level. I your pup is too tired to walk further, carry your pup home. As your dog gets older, walks are essential – see training section. (We don’t recommend biking or running with dogs until they are a year old to allow for proper hip development.)
Limit your dog from jumping and doing steps until 6 months. Don’t let dog run repeatedly jump off of beds or run up and down the deck steps all day to chase balls, squirrels, etc. as this is too hard on their hips.
Parvo
Until your puppy is fully immunized, keep your puppy away from any areas where dogs routinely go. Puppies can easily pick up the Parvo virus, an extremely nasty illness that can easily kill puppies. (To an adult dog, Parvo is usually harmless - they are hardly affected by this disease.) Parvo can linger in soil for months, so until the puppy is fully immunized, avoid areas that dogs frequent such as dog parks, pet stores, or any place where dogs routinely go. When going to the vet, until your pup is fully immunized, carry your pup in and keep him in your lap. Do not let him explore any lobby where other dogs go.
When to spay and neuter
As with many things, there is a great debate here. Some vets recommend waiting for better bone development. But those who have male pups and want them to not mark and to “pee like a girl” usually neuter prior to 5 months. Once hormones have come in and dogs learn how to mark and lift their leg when peeing, these behaviors are learned and rarely change. (Note that males which are allowed to become dominant may still mark even if neutered. Both males and females may hump others if allowed to become dominant.)
Mind Your Manners
It important to teach your pup how to mind their manners. Master the “sit” command right away. Have them sit before receiving food, going outside, coming back inside, and before being pet. In addition, do not reinforce bad aggressive manners such as jumping on you or others for attention. See more in the training section.
Don’t allow pups to chew on your hands; give them a bully stick, pig’s ear, or chew toy. I try to let pups think that I am made of tissue paper and say “ouch” real loud when I feel their teeth. This will ensure they do not get in the habit of play biting which may not hurt now, but can definitely be painful as they get older. If they do not respond to this, move your hand up and down between your pup and yourself.
Don’t allow pups to chew on anything that is not a dog toy. If your pup starts to chew on an inappropriate object (socks, shoes, your swimming goggles, etc.) NEVER run after your pup. This makes the item special to the pup. So just distract you dog or tell your dog “treat” or whatever word you have for very special treats. He’ll come to where you give the treat and will drop the item to get the treat. Now the item has become much less special. Take the item away when your dog is distracted/ not seeing what you are doing.
Puppy Training Classes
I am a huge fan of puppy training classes as your pup will learn how to listen in a completely different (and distracting) setting. If there is a bully pup in the training class, protect your pup from this dog. Make sure your class has a positive trainer. We like happy happy happy!
REMEMBER TO SOCIALIZE, SOCIALIZE, SOCIALIZE!
From a couple days after your puppy comes home until it is at least four months old, socialize your dog and provide him with a new experience EVERY DAY. This daily socialization is absolutely vital until 12 weeks and then aim to have an outing at least every other day until 16 weeks. This will make all the difference in your pups life! It is so worth the effort! See dozens of ideas under “training section”!! Pups should be exposed to various people, places, experiences and friendly dogs. (avoid all aggressive or unfriendly dogs. We want all pup experiences to be happy happy happy! Puppy playtimes are generally the best for doggie interactions.) Choose experiences wisely. You want your pup to be safe from contacting Parvo before being fully vaccinated, but at the same time, you want to develop a confident pup through multiple positive experiences and interactions. If you have two dogs, spend time socializing your new pup away from your other dog. This will help avoid your pup from being fearful when separated from his pal. (I have seen pups who are always with another dog become so completely bonded that they are filled with anxiety when ever separated.)
